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First of all I want to send love to anyone reading this in these unsure and unprecedented times…

I’ve had a lot of clients messaging me about their hair, disguising roots and how to cope over the next couple of weeks. Now I know worse things are happening in the world but our mental health is SO important too. If you know me you’ll know I harp on about mental health a hella lot and am very open about struggles, the way I see it if I can just help one person to feel better by talking about it then it can make all the difference. 

Anyway there’s a big connection in how we feel about ourselves ie our hair and the affect on mental health as women (and some men)..

The main thing I say to all my clients is DO NOT BOX DYE YOUR HAIR!!! I know i’m biased as I am a professional and we are educated from being new born into the industry that ‘box dye’ is the devil but that because we know the science behind why they are damaging on the hair and the affects long term they can have. 

Colour Build Up…

So the main thing as a non professional your going to be able to see in the hair is colour build up, this makes the hair dull, too dark and usually uneven.

What is colour build up?!

Truth is in the name.. its where colour is applied over colour numerous times over a long period of time. With box colours the colour molecules are scientifically smaller than professional colour, so not only do they soak into the hair making it super intense, they throw the colour out just as fast, meaning you may start with a rich shiny colour but within two washes the colour is faded down the drain leaving you with a mucky, dull colour. So because they fade so fast and the inability to apply it with precision because how do you see the back of your own head?! The temptation to just apply it all over very messily is all too much. Not only that try not getting it all over your bathroom!

Unrealistic expectations…

I hate the boxes on these ‘box dye’ colours, I see them in the shops and they make my blood boil, the false advertising of them is impeccable and its pretty bad that people can fall for it. Theres usually a lovely model on the box with highly photoshopped hair, the thing is people are lead to believe that if they apply that colour their hair is miraculously going to be that colour. As I always say you can’t beat science! Tint doesn’t lift tint.. in any circumstance. If your hair is dark brown, and you apply a lighter colour all over, the only hair that will lift is your roots, ie virgin hair as the lighter tint will not lift the dark tint. This is just a hair disaster waiting to happen.

Lets get personal…

Having said that as a professional hairdresser we don’t just pick off the shelf a colour and apply it. The concoctions and formulas that are going through our minds even in your consultation is crazy and if your a hair science nerd like me rather fascinating. We look at:

1. Natural Level and underlying pigment

2. Skin tone and eye colour

3. Level of porosity

4. Previous colour put on the hair (this is the biggie)

5. Percentage of grey.

6. Overall condition

7. What percentage of oxidant to use.

These are just the basic points we look at before applying colour, when you visit a colourist your getting something that is truly unique to you.

Cheap now not later…

So for one box colour were looking at around £5.00-8.00 usually having to get one once a month, maybe more depending on colour. Once you get colour build up which is inevitable the process in order to get your hair back healthy, looking fresh and vibrant again is going to take a while, and money. Colour correction is a niche subject even to hairdressers, its rare you’ll find a colourist that knows that why are doing, this is not only expensive, time consuming but super compromising on the condition of your locks.

Theres nothing like a visit with your colourist…

The training that goes into becoming a hairdresser is not to be under estimated. Personally I started an apprenticeship when I was 16 meaning I now have nearly 14 years in the industry (wow I feel old). The hours I have worked and training I have endured was seriously hard work mentally and physically but oh so worth it. The science of hair colour is amazing but literally takes YEARS to master, with undertones, pigment placement, hair shafts, hair follicles, hair depths and tones to percentages and millilitre measurements not to mention the ingredients in Loreal Professional are so much better for the hair and have stood the test of time. All this expertise can not be found in a box.

What to do for now?!

I recommend using a spray for now on the roots, this Loreal Magic Cover Up bought from a supermarket (ugh! even saying this makes me feel a bit sick.. hah!) but needs must! You can disguise your grey subtly with this spray, coming in a range of colours this is the only DIY I would suggest.

Zowie Xx